San Marzano Tomatoes in Ratatouille
I took a sick day today, courtesy of my skull-tingling, spine-wrangling sinus headache. I thought I would just drop the Lila Bean off at school and head back home to sleep for a while because I only got about two hours last night. But when I came in, flashes of red winked at me in the bright morning sun from the garden beds next door. I grabbed the colander and walked over in the still cool air, passing by the chickens who are still happily scratching bugs up out of the soil, making those contented little gurgly chicken noises.

So instead I’ve been listening to Natalie Merchant’s, The House Carpenter’s Daughter, while coring, seeding and quartering the colander full of San Marzanos, and tiny dicing eggplant, a variety of peppers, and mincing shallots and Red Russian garlic. Slow-roasted Ratatouille for the freezer. The house and neighborhood are so quiet, just the music twanging from the speaker on top of the fridge, the kitties wandering around, scratching at the door for in, then out. The cicadas and crickets sing their swan song of summer and I know I made the right choice staying home today. I’m in desperate need of some alone time in my own house, a little head space for the head case, so-to-speak. Almost perfect, except for the pounding headache, the perpetual sneezing and the constant chills which we will attempt to ignore for the remainder of this gift of a day.
San Marzano paste tomatoes, as described at High Mowing Seeds where I purchased my seed two years ago:
A favorite among processors due to its high solids and outstanding flavors, this classic Italian variety makes an excellent, all-around tomato for paste, puree, or canning. Long, 3†X 1 ½“ intensely red cylindrical fruit resists cracking and holds well both on the vine and in storage. Indeterminate.
This year I bought my plants from a grower through ebay because I didn’t get my seed-starting act together in time. I swear I posted about that, but can’t find where to link back to it. I’m not very good at the meta-blogging. Aaanyway, even with the less-than-optimal access to the sun, these plants produced some fine tomatoes that are ripening at just the right rate to make a batch of roasted sauce at a time (today a double-batch). I’m all addicted to roasted sauce now—gas bill be damned—with small diced eggplant and lots of garlic and peppers and plenty of fresh herbs tossed in for the last hour of cooking. It comes out so sweet and caramelized, tasting of earth and sun and captured summer.
I can’t see any real reason to grow other types of paste tomatoes if you’re looking for a true paster and are low on space to grow them. (Although I am a big fan of the Amish Paste and Italian Giant Paste tomatoes as well.) The San Marzanos have very few seeds, almost no gel and thick, dry walls with a terrifically meaty texture. They’re super fast to prepare for cooking, with very little mess. Steven’s been very busy with his San Marzanos this summer, too.
I can only imagine how incredible they must taste when grown under the Italian sun, hugging a trellis built by wizened peasant farmer’s hands on soil that has been tended by the same family for centuries—as opposed to my second year Ohio soil, overshadowed by giant old oak trees.
Oops! Sorry. I seem to have fallen down the romantic stereotype rabbit hole.

See how neat and tidy that looks? The seed clump slides right out leaving a truly empty, dry cavity that’s just begging for a good slow roasting.

Don’t you think?
You should smell my house right now. That’s what someone needs to do—write a wordpress plugin for fragrance blogging. Come on all you code wizards out there, heed my call!
So here we have one of two pans about to go into the oven.

And here’s the finished batch from Saturday.

Hee. Do you like how I did that? Now, you can see that I didn’t take the skins off the tomatoes. I seldom do. I’m just one of those weirdos who doesn’t mind the papery skin sticking to her teeth and the roof of her mouth. Or maybe I’m just too lazy to deal with that extra step of dunking them in hot water, then plunging them into cold, then peeling them. I mean, let’s cut to the chase, what’s a little tomato skin between teeth?
So I think I’m going to do this Ratatouille thing with the rest of my tomatoes as they come in. The eggplant at the market has been great—medium sized, skin not too thick, not too seedy and affordable. I’m thinking ahead to February and how wonderful a container of this is going to taste over rice while I’m balancing my bowl on my belly and browsing through seed catalogs.
Technorati Tags: San Marzano paste tomatoes, Ratatouille, slow-roasting, garden, eat local, locavore, stocking the freezer











"In summer we live out of doors, and have only impulses and feelings, which are all for action, and must wait commonly for the stillness and longer nights of autumn and winter before any thought will subside; we are sensible that behind the rustling leaves, and the stacks of grain, and the bare clusters of the grape, there is the field of a wholly new life, which no man has lived; that even this earth was made for more mysterious and nobler inhabitants than men and women. In the hues of October sunsets, we see the portals to other mansions than those which we occupy."
~Henry David Thoreau


September 4th, 2007 at 12:20 pm
Call me lazy, but I wouldn’t have bothered seeding the tomatoes. My sauce is full of seeds and I like it that way.
September 4th, 2007 at 12:49 pm
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September 4th, 2007 at 6:07 pm
Heh, not lazy! Just accommodating. Now I don’t mind the skin, but seeds get me a little freaked. A few okay, but a lot? Arsenic & Old Lace.
September 4th, 2007 at 8:39 pm
Sweah ta God, my mouth is watering.
Sorry about the headache. Hee, when you said “flashes of red” I was like “Oh no! Migraine!”
Glad it wasn’t.
Next year, can you tell me what tomato plants to get and when? Thank you.
September 8th, 2007 at 11:10 am
I was just going to post what Steven said… skin and seeds both in mine, although I do attempt to get rid of some of the seeds, at least, when using my extra non-paste tomatoes in sauce.
I can’t say enough about growing your own eggplants, Kelly. I’ve grown ‘Ichiban’ for the past few years and they are wonderful–not too big, not bitter, not very seedy. (Even when I “miss” one or two and don’t harvest them until they’re a foot or so long.) They grow on the east side of my house and are shaded by tall grasses on top of that, so you wouldn’t have to worry about growing them in less than full sun.
September 14th, 2007 at 8:00 pm
You speak my language lady. This is one of my favorite all time dishes and I’m making lots of it against a cold February too. My favorite local farm has gorgeous eggplants for .50 cents a piece. I make mine differently than you, but isn’t that the true magic of all earthy peasant food: that we can each make essentially the same dish but tweaked specifically to our tastes and our locale?
I peel skins for canning projects, but I never peel tomato skin for cooking. I don’t see them either.
September 14th, 2007 at 8:00 pm
I meant that I don’t SEED them either.